Coconut Grove in 48 hours
Written by Meghann Richardson & Christy Chaney
Craving a change of scenery? In each issue of Owensboro Living, we’re setting our sights beyond city limits and inviting you to come along. Whether it’s a charming small town a few hours away or a scenic destination across the country, think of this travel section as a road trip with a friend who shares your love for good food, unforgettable views, and unique local flavor — just like we do here at home.
Miami is a big town. A very big town. Capturing the true essence of a larger-than-life place like this could take months, though we had just 48 hours. But the best way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time, and our first bite came in the lovely Coconut Grove.
More commonly known as “The Grove,” the neighborhood is alive, boasting historic mansions and a more current bohemian energy that radiates up and down the streets. It is Miami’s oldest inhabited area, and at one time didn’t belong to the city at all until they started going steady in 1925. Now, a stroll around the area shows a blend of the historical elite, peace-and-love artistic hippie artists, and a food scene that is serving up bites to remember.
The Mayfair Hotel was our hub for the trip — part art installation, part jungle retreat. It’s wrapped in a swath of green leaves tumbling down the interior and exterior. Large soaking tubs, a ’90s aesthetic, and just funky enough that you wonder if you’ve checked into an artist’s residence, not another chain.
Located in the heart of Coconut Grove, the hotel recently underwent an extensive $50 million renovation to restore its sculptural, Gaudi-inspired architecture. Beyond the vine-covered atrium, the property includes a rooftop pool and lounge that offers panoramic views of Biscayne Bay. Guest rooms maintain a minimalist but eclectic feel, utilizing hand-carved wood headboards and vibrant textiles to anchor the artistic theme.
Just down the street is CocoWalk. What used to be “a mall” is now a walkable, open-air shopping area where you think you will only find the predetermined chain stores. Instead, studded along the way are cute locally owned treasures shaded by large palms, beckoning you to try on that perfect dress at Edite Mode or sit for a spell and enjoy a hand-rolled cigar at Coco Cigar. Make sure you adventure outside of CocoWalk for more local treasures. The Grove is teeming with local haunts. Don’t miss Books & Books for that bygone era of local fiction at your fingertips.
The best part of any trip is always the food. We went on a ceviche adventure at Jaguars. They do not just serve cut-up shrimp in a martini glass with lime. This place serves a full hit parade of flavor bombs, from their daily staples to their more exotic offerings. Your best option is the combo, where you can start with corvina spiked with lime, rocoto, and sweet potatoes for that Peruvian feel, then move on to tuna with jalapeño, ginger, and avocado, and round it out with Vuelve a la Vida, a mixed seafood in spicy tomato sauce. Chase it with a beautiful spicy marg, and you’ve got a night to remember.
Breakfast after a night like this should be simple, but a plain pancake will not do it. A skip across the street from the hotel lands you at El Bagel for hand-rolled, baked-fresh bagels. The hours are limited, it’s chaotic inside in the best Miami way, and they are just not in a hurry, which is fine because neither were we. Our order included the SEC sandwich, consisting of a maple sausage patty, eggs, and American cheese. We also split a BLT on an everything bagel, prepared with thick-cut bacon, sun-dried tomato paste, pickled mustard seeds, arugula, and garlic aioli.
Naturally, because we have zero self-control and a deep-seated fear of a cream cheese-less future, we also ordered a tub of garlic chive schmear to go.
To fully appreciate the depth of Coconut Grove, two specific stops illustrate the area’s contrasting identities: one of extreme opulence and another that preserves its natural origins.
The Vizcaya Museum and Gardens serve as a sprawling display of Italian Renaissance style. Built between 1914 and 1922 as the winter estate for agricultural industrialist James Deering, the property was designed to provide a Mediterranean escape from Chicago’s climate. The main house resembles a historic palace relocated to the shores of Biscayne Bay, featuring 10 acres of formal gardens, a stone barge breakwater, and a collection of European antiquities spanning two millennia.
In contrast, a visit to the Barnacle Historic State Park offers a glimpse into the region’s founding era. As the former home of Ralph Middleton Munroe, a yacht designer and key figure in early Coconut Grove, the estate preserves the oldest house in Miami-Dade County in its original location. The grounds provide a rare look at the native “Miami Hammock,” a dense tropical hardwood forest, representing the landscape as it existed before the development of the surrounding city.
After you have basked in what it was like to live in the highest of wealth, we suggest a stroll back down to basics at The Barnacle Historic State Park to see what the Grove was before it got a European polishing. It feels wild and is full of homes built by pioneer Ralph Munroe in 1891. It is The Grove before it was The Grove, and this humble beginning should be as celebrated as the mansions, the ’90s energy, or the current refresh.
The Grove, Coconut Grove, Miami — whatever you decide to call it — we suggest you find your way there for a quiet, stripped-down version of the hustle and bustle of the main drag. It’s a place that manages to be effortlessly cool without trying too hard, a rare feat in a city known for its neon-lit identity crises. Come for the history, stay for the sunshine, and definitely stay for the drinks that make you forget you have a 9 a.m. meeting on Monday. Grab a cigar, find a shady spot under a banyan tree, and dive into a plate of stone crab claws like you’ve actually earned them.
Just do yourself a favor: slow down, lean into the ’90s vibes, and enjoy a stripped-down version of the Miami hustle. The mangroves aren’t in a hurry, and for once, you shouldn’t be either. OL
